My second visit to Kenya this year got off to a rocky start. Just as we were nearing Kenyan airspace, a few hours before our scheduled landing in Nairobi, we received news of a fire erupting at the international terminal. This blaze, which ultimately razed the entire terminal, prompted our flight to be rerouted to Mombasa. There, I found myself spending twenty-four unexpected hours before being cleared to proceed. With an assignment awaiting me in Dar Es Salaam, the delay meant touching down in Dar the following day, barely an hour before I was due to start working.
A Journey through Kenya to the Heart of the Maasai Mara
My assignment in Dar Es Salaam wrapped up smoothly despite the chaotic start, and soon I found myself heading back to Kenya. August is prime safari time in the Masai Mara, coinciding with the breathtaking spectacle of the great migration. While my first trip to Kenya a few months ago had its share of wildlife thrills, I was eager for a closer look at the region, especially the Masai villages off the beaten path.
The Maasai people stand as one of Africa’s most renowned ethnic groups, perhaps among the most photographed tribes globally. These semi-nomadic communities, scattered across Kenya and northern Tanzania, owe much of their fame to their proximity to the numerous game parks of East Africa, as well as their distinctive customs and attire. Tourism significantly shapes life in the Mara district, with local Masai readily embracing the opportunities it presents. “Authentic” Masai villages spring up near park entrances, where adorned in their iconic red garments, Masai warriors enthusiastically perform traditional dances in exchange for patronage.
Fortunate enough to receive an invitation, my friends and I stayed at the familial abode of a prominent local figure, situated just an hour’s drive from the Mara reserve. This afforded us a precious glimpse into the contemporary life of a Masai family. Each morning, before the break of dawn, we embarked on excursions to the park, returning at nightfall with tales of exhilarating encounters with cheetahs and lions, all savored alongside delicious home-cooked meals.
As our journey neared its end, we were graciously invited to a housewarming celebration in the neighboring village of Lolgorian. It proved to be a wonderful opportunity to immerse ourselves in local music and forge connections with the community. This visit to Lolgorian revealed a distinct facet of the Masai experience, one far removed from our initial expectations.
Journey to the Gold Mines: Disparity and Struggle in Narok, Kenya
In Narok, Kenya, the journey to the gold mines of Nyatikile in Kilgoris exposes a stark disparity between expected wealth and the reality of modest homes along dusty roads. Despite a history of gold mining in Lolgorian, the locals lack signs of prosperity. Small-scale miners, often lacking proper equipment, brave hazardous conditions in their quest for gold, facing risks such as harmful fumes and collapsing mines as they extract gold from crushed rock. Lolgorian township, located near Kilimapesa Hill and about 30km from the Ulululu gate of the Mara Game Reserve, has been a centre for gold exploration and mining for over a century. Despite a commercial mining lease granted in November 2011, artisanal miners continue to operate using methods reminiscent of the American gold rush era. This local activity has shaped a lifestyle akin to the Wild West, with unpaved roads, a small market town atmosphere, and social venues like bars and brothels frequented by young men playing pool under dim lighting.
